The Tiruvengalanatha Temple was built at Vijayanagara[ Hampi] during the reign of Achyutraya, younger brother of the most famous king of Vijayanagar empire, Krishnadeva Raya. Though like most of the temples at Hampi this too has Lord Vishnu as it’s principal deity but it has come to be popularly known as Achyutaraya Temple.
The temple complex is between two hills Gandhmadana and Matanga hills. There are two routes to temple one is to climb the steps behind the Nandi at the east of Hampi Bazar and another is from King’s palace path.
I had two experiences of Achyutraya temple, one while visiting it, roaming through it’s vast open spaces and mandapas with intricately carved pillars and the second one looking at the vast spread temple complex from the top of Matanga hills.
When we walked in the premises of the temple it was almost mid day. The day outside was bright, sunny though it was not hot. Walking towards it from a distance I could see the tall, wide imposing gate. Reaching there I stood on the gate taking in the architectural grandeur spread before me and seeping in the serenity, the quiet, the peace of the moment. At the moment there were not many tourists in the premises, at least not in the range of our eyes and ears. From gate a well laid path led to another gate and on both the sides of that path were open green patches of grass. In the middle of open space of one side there lay a big boulder with flat surface. A lone figure sat on that boulder, a soft golden light filling the space with ethereal feel. In the background loomed the pillars, pavilions and other structures, writing the testimonials for the time bygone. It was such a beautiful moment that I am incapable of putting it in the words. A moment when heart is filled with the mixture of diverse emotions, awe for the magnificent creations spread before, joy for being able to witness those, pride for being one from the land of those master craftsmen and a tinge of sadness for the end of that golden era of our history.
The way which led us towards Achyutraya temple. On the right side a bawali [ step well] was being excavated and being arranged. How much could be restored and how much has been lost.
The long lost path, rediscovered, re-travelled, an attempt to treasure the glory, to water the roots, the past cant be reconstructed, future can’t be predicted, ‘The moment’ to be lived in all it’s fullness.
Imposing, magnificent first gate of Achyutraya temple. The second gate can be seen in the background. This is the outer side of the temple gate.
The inner side of the first gate, one of the mandapam at the far end, the lone figure on the boulder.
Silence whispered tales from days bygone
figures on stone stood eloquent in their muteness
sky leaned over to caress the wounds of earth
Every pillar, every gallery, every corner has a rich heritage tale of art and culture to narrate.
These two pictures show the view of Achyutraya temple complex from Matanga Hills.
Entire plan is so grand and magnificent. This is said to be the last grand project before the fall of Vijay Nagar Empire. The temple was consecrated in AD 1534.
All the pics by Sunder Iyer
April 2, 2018 at 2:25 PM
Any close-up’s of the sculptures? Wonder what would the future generations see as our legacy! The lay out looks grand indeed.
April 4, 2018 at 3:55 AM
Hampi temples have wonderfully sculpted and engraved pillars in the Mandapams. And one of the image sculpted is of Yali, the mythical character, which reflects features of multiple creatures. Though Yalis are different kinds yet the main animals constituting a Yali are lion, elephants and snakes. we have got some close-ups and will post them soon.Thanks a lot.Our ancestors were definitely far more enriched in ethics and aesthetics,
April 3, 2018 at 2:47 PM
Stunning pictures..especially the first four!
April 4, 2018 at 3:56 AM
Thanks a lot Arv. Happy that you enjoyed the pics.