When we walk towards Dasashvamesh Ghat from Gudaulia say some hundred steps before reaching the steps of Ghat a narrow lane divulges from the main road and this narrow lane too lead to another Ghat which lies adjacent to Dashvamesh Ghat. At the end of this lane, that is just before the lane leads to steps stands Man Mahal, popularly known as Man Mandir. This palace was built by Raja Man Singh in about 1600 A.D. An obse4vatory was built on the roof top of this palace by Maharaja Jai Singh 2 of Jaipur somewhere between 1686 and 1745. Those who are even a little bit interested in history and monuments of our country must be knowing that Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh is known for setting up masonry observatory at   Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi, Mathura. He is also the founder of Jaipur city. These masonry observatories set up by him are popularly known as Jantar- Mantar, which is perhaps corrupted form of Yantra- Mantra. This name perhaps denotes to calculations by instruments and that is what these observatories do. Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh himself was a great astronomer. So here we are talking about the observatory on the top of Man Mandir. The observatory has many yantras to calculate time, distance, movement and inclinations of stars and planets, to prepare lunar and solar calendars. Few of the Yantras there are—

Samrat Yantra – small and large.

Digamsa Yantra—

Chakra Yantra

Nadivalaya Yantra

Dakshinottara Bhitti Yantra.

 Another wonderful attraction of this rooftop is wonderful view of ho;y Ganges. Even at the time when sun was at it’s Zenith, the breeze was cool there.

A major restoration work of this observatory by Maharaja Sawai Singh in 1912.

We were there at 2.45 P.M. and sun Dial was showing the exact time. It was thrilling to see and observe that. A little feeling of pride crept in my heart, what a great visionary were our ancestors and how knowledgeable.

Recently this Man Mahal has undergone a big change and has become a tourist attraction. Now Man Mahal host a 3D virtual experimental museum showcasing culture and heritage of Varanasi. The museum became operative since 2019. It was set up by National Council of Science Museum under the guidance of Union ministry of Culture. We need to purchase a ticket to enter the building—Rs. 25/ per person. For foreign nationals it is Rs.300/- per person.

As we enter the first hall, we find a big arc shaped screen on the wall and we can enjoy a short film on various aspects of Varanasi , the magnificent ghats, the cultural heritage, a part of history etc accompanied by commentary.

On walls of various rooms, halls and corners are big, life size paintings and photographs revealing the soul of Varanasi—a Sadhu on Ghat, a lane and an old lady walking, two old people busy in playing chess on a small platform in a narrow lane etc.

As I said earlier this museum takes you on a digital tour, so in one of the halls is this table top screen on which flash various icons stating, wall art of Varanasi, wooden toys and furniture art and so on. At a time there five- six icons and you touch the one in which you are interested and short film about it runs on the screen.

Similarly in another hall is another one with pictures of various literary personalities having connection with Varanasi . You touch one and pours down lot of information about the personality and their literary works.

In yet another hall are these vertical screens on the wall, small rectangular ones. Below these screens are wooden platforms with square hollows cut in it and nearby are placed wooden squares of same size with pictures of great personalities carved on these. You fit a square in a hollow and information regarding that personality appear on the screen.

This museum is informative, interactive with many aesthetically beautiful pictures interspersed.

Then there is this Pan Shop, Pani.e. beetle specially Maghai pan is one of the speciality of Varanasi. The pan wala looks almost real .

You can gather information about on various other topics and personalities, weaving industry of Varanasi, the famous silk weaving industry, the old map, the music personalities like Girija Devi, Bismillah Khan etc.

And there is yet another attraction, a film on Ganga avataran. i.e. mythological story of ganga coming to earth out of Brahma’s Kamnadal. The film starts from ancestors of King Bhagirath and ends with River Ganges cascading down from Shiva’s hair. The film is shown on the white walls of the hall and at the end when Giganting waves of Ganges leaps and runs from one wall to another leave one with a feeling of getting drenched in holy water. If you are in Varanasi, don’t miss out on this museum in Man Mahal at Dr, Rajendra Prasad ghat.

All pictures by Sunder Iyer