Mist gradually loosens its embrace around the tall trees and whispers to leaves awakening them to face a new day. The jungle seems to be reluctant to come out of the soft dreams. Sun rays try to find their way down caressing the vegetation with its magical golden touch. Bathed in a misty morning glaze the mysterious forest invite me to imagine the hidden world. The tall trees stand quiet yet nudging the leaves to waken up. The surreal, mysterious world of foggy forest casts a spell. And then slowly a melodious chirping is heard somewhere deep in the forest. It’s time to welcome new horizons, to walk on new path. The pathway looks so inviting.
And here are few lines by Lucy Montgomery about the fog clad forest—
Richard Bach is one of my favourite writers. Whie talking about deer he has said that deer can tell when a leaf falls silent in the forest and the reason Bach attributes to it is that the deer hears it breathing differently. When I watched various species of deer in different parts of forest in different times of the day, I could understand rather feel what Bach meant by that.
Soft, delicate and graceful deer is the most beautiful animal in the forest. Observing it you can easily feel how sensitive it is. yes, sensitive enough to notice the leaf breathing differently.
A deer walks out of foliage, stops for a second on the narrow path, listens carefully to the silent music of early morning forest and then walks slowly and gracefully disappearing into the misty, dreamy world. I could hear my heart tingling like temple bell.
A group of deer midst the brown grass bathed in the reds and oranges of setting sun look placidly at you and you are transported to another world. Sun slowly goes down; the water of ponds imbibes all the colours and the group slowly walks towards the dense forest saying goodbye to sun. And the moment pulsates within you forever.
the cutie fawn with mama deer, the antlers, marsh deer and so on…there are many precious moments-some like prayers, some like gentle music while others like poetry. Deer are beauty in its softest and most beautiful form.
When we walk towards Dasashvamesh Ghat from Gudaulia say some hundred steps before reaching the steps of Ghat a narrow lane divulges from the main road and this narrow lane too lead to another Ghat which lies adjacent to Dashvamesh Ghat. At the end of this lane, that is just before the lane leads to steps stands Man Mahal, popularly known as Man Mandir. This palace was built by Raja Man Singh in about 1600 A.D. An obse4vatory was built on the roof top of this palace by Maharaja Jai Singh 2 of Jaipur somewhere between 1686 and 1745. Those who are even a little bit interested in history and monuments of our country must be knowing that Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh is known for setting up masonry observatory at Jaipur, Delhi, Varanasi, Mathura. He is also the founder of Jaipur city. These masonry observatories set up by him are popularly known as Jantar- Mantar, which is perhaps corrupted form of Yantra- Mantra. This name perhaps denotes to calculations by instruments and that is what these observatories do. Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh himself was a great astronomer. So here we are talking about the observatory on the top of Man Mandir. The observatory has many yantras to calculate time, distance, movement and inclinations of stars and planets, to prepare lunar and solar calendars. Few of the Yantras there are—
Samrat Yantra – small and large.
Digamsa Yantra—
Chakra Yantra
Nadivalaya Yantra
Dakshinottara Bhitti Yantra.
Another wonderful attraction of this rooftop is wonderful view of ho;y Ganges. Even at the time when sun was at it’s Zenith, the breeze was cool there.
A major restoration work of this observatory by Maharaja Sawai Singh in 1912.
We were there at 2.45 P.M. and sun Dial was showing the exact time. It was thrilling to see and observe that. A little feeling of pride crept in my heart, what a great visionary were our ancestors and how knowledgeable.
Recently this Man Mahal has undergone a big change and has become a tourist attraction. Now Man Mahal host a 3D virtual experimental museum showcasing culture and heritage of Varanasi. The museum became operative since 2019. It was set up by National Council of Science Museum under the guidance of Union ministry of Culture. We need to purchase a ticket to enter the building—Rs. 25/ per person. For foreign nationals it is Rs.300/- per person.
As we enter the first hall, we find a big arc shaped screen on the wall and we can enjoy a short film on various aspects of Varanasi , the magnificent ghats, the cultural heritage, a part of history etc accompanied by commentary.
On walls of various rooms, halls and corners are big, life size paintings and photographs revealing the soul of Varanasi—a Sadhu on Ghat, a lane and an old lady walking, two old people busy in playing chess on a small platform in a narrow lane etc.
As I said earlier this museum takes you on a digital tour, so in one of the halls is this table top screen on which flash various icons stating, wall art of Varanasi, wooden toys and furniture art and so on. At a time there five- six icons and you touch the one in which you are interested and short film about it runs on the screen.
Similarly in another hall is another one with pictures of various literary personalities having connection with Varanasi . You touch one and pours down lot of information about the personality and their literary works.
In yet another hall are these vertical screens on the wall, small rectangular ones. Below these screens are wooden platforms with square hollows cut in it and nearby are placed wooden squares of same size with pictures of great personalities carved on these. You fit a square in a hollow and information regarding that personality appear on the screen.
This museum is informative, interactive with many aesthetically beautiful pictures interspersed.
Then there is this Pan Shop, Pani.e. beetle specially Maghai pan is one of the speciality of Varanasi. The pan wala looks almost real .
You can gather information about on various other topics and personalities, weaving industry of Varanasi, the famous silk weaving industry, the old map, the music personalities like Girija Devi, Bismillah Khan etc.
And there is yet another attraction, a film on Ganga avataran. i.e. mythological story of ganga coming to earth out of Brahma’s Kamnadal. The film starts from ancestors of King Bhagirath and ends with River Ganges cascading down from Shiva’s hair. The film is shown on the white walls of the hall and at the end when Giganting waves of Ganges leaps and runs from one wall to another leave one with a feeling of getting drenched in holy water. If you are in Varanasi, don’t miss out on this museum in Man Mahal at Dr, Rajendra Prasad ghat.
Amidst the stretch of ghats running along the holy river Ganges is Boondi Parkota Ghat. This Ghat was constructed by the king Suraj Bhan Singh Hada of Boondi. Above this ghat near Brahma ghat is this museum known as Kashi Dham. This is a unique museum. It imparts knowledge about various aspects of Indian culture, our civilization and Sanatan Dharma through paintings, murals, idols and a variety of artefacts. The museum is very beautifully and exhaustively planned. The ideas are executed very creatively.
After ascending the steps from ghat we took the right turn and hardly ten steps ahead was the gate of Kashi Dham museum. An ornate and beautifully carved door welcomed us. We stepped into the corridor. One the left side was the shrine of Laleshwar Mahadev and on right in the verandah was a reception desk. The temple of Laleshwar Mahadev is said to be almost four hundred years old. Black wooden pillers narrate stories of the times bygone. I think it must have been a residential property in olden times. In varanasi midst the maze of lanes we find many accommodations housing temples inside them. In its present Avatara the wall around circumambulatory path displays images of the twelve Jyotirlingas.
For going beyond this area and entering the halls of museum one had to take ticket at the rate of Rs. 25 per person. Come with me, I would give a short tour of the museum.
The temple , shrine of Laleshwar Mahadev.
Pushing the glass door as we stepped into the first hall, we found this magnificent Natraj idol. Don’t forget to pay attention to the dancing poses around it.
On another wall is this map of Bharat Kshetra. The ancient map with the names of the kingdoms. The boundaries of our land stretched far and wide.
A glimpse of Dances and festivals of India.
The Saptarishis, Devis, Saints.
solah sansakara, rites, rituals , phases of life as per Sanatan Dharma.
!2 jyotirlinga temples, the great spiritual personalities, devotees.
Some mythological anecdotes.
As you can see the Sun God and the lunar phases.
Mytho;ogical weapons, animals and representation of Grahas, nakshtras.
This view is of upper floor. The window gives an excellent view of river Ganga. On this floor certain rooms are available where people could stay but presently no arrangement of food was there.
Om namah Shivay. A closer look of Shivalinga.
I have tried to give you an overview. There are many more informative facts such as names of scriptures, Purans, Upnishads etc., details regarding evolution of our national flag and much more.
The wall art of varanasi could be seen on Ghats as well as the narrow lanes snaking around various neighbourhoods of the city. The images on the walls not only add colour and vibrancy to the old walls and structure but also spell out the essence of the city older than history itself. Though during our this visit we found most of the walls of ghats painted in pink, [ perhaps a cleanliness drive in the wake of visits of G-20 dignitaries from across the world.] yet we could capture few along the ghats and others in the street, What I post here is just a miniscule of what the entire city has to offer. These wall arts are the cultural repository of not only a city steeped in various art forms like dance, music but displays themes representing the diverse richness of our entire country. scenes from history, mythology to few conveying social messages all kinds of themes are the subject of these wall art.
These all-ladies band on the wall of Mehta ghat showcase some of the musical instruments which are not commonly seen now a days. I thoroughly enjoyed their company and submerged myself in the music of the waves lapping on the stone steps.
And my most favourite moment on the ghats. The sheer co-incidence made my heart dance with joy. I mean, I don’t live in the city so while going on the trip I carried this saree and then wore it while I visited this particular ghat. When my eyes suddenly fell on this Kathakali dancer, I could almost feel the mirth in his eyes too. A slice of Kerala on the wall as well as my saree.
The divine form of Ardhnareeshwar depicts that Shiva and Shakti, Lord Shiva and goddess Parvati both are equal and inseparable. This form represents the masculine and femenine energy of cosmos to be equal and depending upon each other to complete oneself. The perfect balance of universe is indicated here. The Ardhnareeshwara strotam composed by Adishankaracharya is a very beautiful and significant hymn describing the beauty and harmony of this form.
This view of Ghats is painted on wall in the corridor area. Certain old buildings and walls are intact midst the newly constructed area and the efforts to recreate the old charm have been made. After all Shiva watches everything.
This frame is from Dashashwamesh Ghat. It being Shravan month groups of pilgrims, kanwariyas travelling barefoot flooded the city. As this particular group of ladies sat down to take rest, Ganesha in the background showered His grace.
Now let us walk through few of the lanes of Varanasi.
From ancient times to this day this is what varanasi is, the bliss of surrendering to the that power beyond. Look at the expression of the yogi. He appears to have made the connection with Him.
Shiva and Sadhu. It is said and believed that Kashi stands on the trident of Shiva. I loved the idea of painter to merge the Tilak, the trident and the Shivalinga. Krishna with His ever-sweet expression looks beautiful. And look at the flowing beard of the Sadhu, one can listen to the waves of Ganges there.
Here we can see Nav Grah, nine planets painted on the wall. on another side of the door is depicted the mythological anecdote of Markandey , Yama and Shiva. The story goes like this. Sage Mrikandu and his Marudavati were blessed by a son after praying Shiva for a very long time. Lord Shiva gave the sage an option– 100 foolish sons or one very intelligent son with a life span of only 16 years. Sage chose the later but as the son grew up the sage became sadder thinking of the approaching death of his son. However whe the son Markanday came to know about it he decided to pray lord Shiva himself. Markandeya created his own Shivalinga and started worshipping him, offering prayers to Him. As the appointed day of the death came Lord Yama Himself came to take the boy. Markandey clung to Shivalinga. Yama threw His noose around Markandeya but Shivalinga too got caught in it as Markandey clung to it very tightly. Suddenly Lord Shiva appeared from Shivalinga and Yama had to spare Markandeya’s life. Then Markendeya created the famous maha Mritunjaya Mantra. The young boy grew up to become famous sage Markandeya.
Lord Vishnu on the wall, the peacock on the side wall but the best part of this frame is that tree on the wall. How beautifully the thin strip of the space has been utilised and leaves and branch over the door give a nice effect.
A scene from ghats and a slice of history in one frame. Most probably she is our Jhansi ki Rani Laxmi Bai. She has got a strong connection with this city. She was born in this city. Manikarnika of Kashi later on became Laxmi Bai of Jhansi.
Shiva absorbing and containing The Halahal[poison] churned during Sagar Manthan. Neel Kanth Mahadeva, a power beyond words, endless, limitless.
Mata Annapoorna giving alms to Lord Shiva. Mata Annapoorna is very prominently revered at Varanasi. Besides Kashi Annapoorna temple there are other big and small temples of Devi Annapoorna at Varanasi. This legend establishes the importance of feminine power, the caring and mothering forces for the sustenance of the world, so much so that even lord had to bow down and accept it.
Here are Ganesha and Maruti Nandan.
Om Mahadev.
Goddess Laxami
And here is one example of contemporary art, a landscape.
It’s not just paintings on the walls but while walking through these narrow lanes of varied width, buzzing with daily life activities one could easily locate few of the live paintings too– A aged gentleman with a child sleeping on lap, manning a small shop, a man sleeping on platform oblivious to the daily chaos around him, carved doors and a lone figure inside a house. The maze of the narrow lanes with continuous play of light, shade and darkness opens an altogether different world before you. This is where we experience mundane with spiritual.
This time our Varanasi visit happened after a gap of almost 6 years. When in varanasi what we like most is walking on ghats, sitting on the steps sometimes near water on others somewhere on higher steps and every time we return with different experiences and stories. The best part of spending time on ghats is that they let you be with yourself midst all the bustling crowd and multitude of activities. hordes of people, variety of sounds and all kinds of activities, nothing distracts you if you really want to sit and just be. Quietly flowing holy river as if enters inside and peace trickles inside drop by drop. The white sand on the other side, the rows of green trees running along the stretch of sand, the blue sky over kneeling down to come closer, and the noise in the background fades away. Whenever I feel lost, I would come here to find myself.
Behind me the steps rose high and at the top was a small temple, a Hanuman idol in orange shone on the wall, bhajans floated down to me and I looked upward with a belief, a firm one that heaven is there somewhere. Someone is watching us and those birds soaring high are messengers of peace and hope.
And then listening to the stories of these ever-travelling people, who go with flow of life, not deciding about the next day. These people fascinate me and on every visit to Kashi I meet someone or other of this type. It’s not that they don’t have got a place of their own rather they belong to every place they go. This all-embracing capability is so liberating.
Shravan month and Kashi, abode of lord Shive, Baba Vishwanath, early morning fresh air, shlokas and Bhajans, joy just sprouts on its own.
This one is newly renovated ghat. Majestic it looks and this stretches up to the high raised gate leading to the new corridor around Vishwanath temple. Next picture gives a glimpse of the gate.
crowd definitely is there but most of the people are within themselves and that’s what I call Kashi effect.
Morning at Assi ghat. we could not make there for morning Ganga Aarti but then the quiet ghat with cool breeze welcomed us. Boats lined up, flags fluttering and the big green tree, the red temple, it all felt so serene and calm.
This one is at Rajendra prasad ghat adjacent to Dashashwamegh ghat.
From this end to that end, from banks to beyond the boats row and the journey continues. Each of us cover the distance in our own way, own way or as is designed for us but reach the same destination. It’s the journey that matters and how we traverse.
And the affectionate touch of Ma Ganga. Since time immemorial it goes on flowing quietly, embracing you when you come to Her.
Every ghat, every step, every shrine, of Varanasi has its own charisma. his time we were lucky to be there during Shravan month. The city was abuzz with orange clad Kavariyans, bhajans and devotional sentiments.
Once again, I want to go back there Where none stands between me and sky That sparkling blue sky. Tall erect trees stand guard While to our heart’s content we both talk A naughty cloud Slipping out of home Sits atop tree And winks at me. Up above Those fair maidens Swirling their white gowns Beckon me to their world, Unfolding wings My heart soras high.
We visited this newly constructed temple on the banks of river Gomti flowing through our city and this visit led to many nostalgic memories of the times bygone when that particular stretch running on the side of the river used to be so different, more natural and calming, to be precise. But then old buildings decay with the passage of time, ages old trees become hollow and die. But I still feel that old structures should be renovated in such a way that the soul of the place is preserved. Renovation does not always mean eradicating it from roots and then giving it an entirely different form. Though I agree that sometimes that is the best option. But still a balance could be maintained, I feel.
I remember from earlier that this long stretch running along the river was full of greenery. There were many big and shady trees. River was much wider than what it is today. There were many ghats on the banks of the river and so were many small and medium sized temples. There were few shelters for the pilgrims and travellers. Few houses of priests and caretakers too were there but every structure maintained a perfect harmony with sanctity of the sacred area and pristine natural ambience. Gradually encroachment took place and now most of the temples stand crouching midst the hoards of kachchha pakka small houses. Some old buildings and structures still stand there in a dilapidated condition. Ancient trees hold the crumbling walls in their embrace, a testimony to their long standing relationship. people inhabit these structure and daily routine goes on.
This particular small old Hanuman temple has been completely renovated. The temple and the area around it has been artistically redeveloped. At least that much area is free of encroachment yet slowly human presence is trying to claw in. The centuries old Hanuman idol has been shifted to basement in a beautiful hall with many images of Lord Hanuman on the walls. Even the enclosure of old very small temple and few old idols have been preserved in the hall. Many old trees too are still standing in the premises.
The river is tamed and restricted by erecting a a pakka wall running along the bank. Though over all the people who got the place renovated have tried to preserve the old, give respect to past , yet looking at certain things evoke a sad feel. But then things change with the passage of time. Over all it is a nice place to visit, calm, quiet and peaceful. I pray that we human contribute our own share to let the place be neat and clean.
The last event in February was launching of book of one of the group member of a literary organisation. I was also one of the speakers. It was a stimulating experience to listen to other learned orators.Meeting new people and bonding with old friends was rejuvenating.
After our cousins left, this friend from another country visited us. Though he was with us for few hours only yet his visit was like a breath of fresh air. They shifted to another country long back but it’s totally due to his efforts that the bond with all of us has survived rather remained strong. We friends here are stationed in different cities but he makes it a point to visit all of us whenever he can and we all know this requires commitment. In any relationship between two persons it is always so that one of them put in more efforts and then another has to recognise his efforts, give credit to him, feel gratitude from the depth of heart then only the relationship blooms and fills the life with it’s fragrance. I remember somewhere I read that friends are the sibling which God never gave us and I totally agree to it, you can share almost every pain with them, you can have fun with them and the best part is you can be yourself when you are with the friends. so here is my gratitude towards you for being who you are.
Another day different from usual routine was visit to Ayeppa temple. I always love to go there. We have been visiting this temple for last almost 30 years. We have seen the deity placed under the thatched roof in the very beginning and saw the temple expanding, getting renovated gradually over the years. The thing which remained unchanged is it’s peace emitting aura. We love to go there early in the morning and sit quietly seeping the serenity. May God shower His blessings on all of us.
I try to walk on your path, let your light fill my heart.
There could be many expressions of faith but they all spell only one emotion, trust and surrender.
Mahashivratri this year was on 18th of February. Mahashivratri is a festival of special spiritual significance. Though it is customary to keep awake entire night and submerge oneself in total devotion towards Adiguru Mahadeva, the festivities start at the break of dawn. Pooja rooms are cleaned and preparations are made for Rudrabhishek. People visit temples and chant Om Namah Shivoy offering Bel Patra and other things. We gathered at a friends place to perform Rudrabhishek. Even the preparations of pooja invoke sacred and pious feeling. Writing Rama on Bel patra using sandal paste, opening the petals of lotus flowers, readying the baskets with all the ingredients of offerings like flowers, Sami leaves, bhang leaves, Dhatura flowers and fruits etc is a cleansing process in itself. When chanting of mantras collectively reverberates the atmosphere the soul is lifted to a higher level. In all it is a very satisfying and enriching experience.
In the might his brother- sister duo dropped by for some time. The brother was visiting homeland from another country where he is settled now. It was good to catch up. Felt good to see the children well settled in life, whom we saw growing up, coping up with the struggles of studies, careers and other kind of stresses. May God be always kind to you.
And then yesterday enjoyed an evening full of meaningful discussions and verses.
So this was February so far. I jot down all these moments to keep myself reminding that I have more to be thankful for than to crib on. The grass is enough green on this side too.
bits and pieces 